Dress with a sleeve-flashlight: pattern, sewing

The flashlight is the sleeve of a sleeve stuck in the armhole withthe formation of assemblies and tapering at the bottom with the arm around. Because of the identity of the pattern, it turns out lush and rounded. Its name was given to this item because of external resemblance to a street lamp. Less often such a sleeve is called a buff.

Many people like the dress with a flashlight sleevebecause of its lightness and romanticism. In this case, the buff can have both an office blouse and an elegant dress for a girl. A flashlight sleeve in combination with an A-line dress creates a relaxed youth style. In this case, it can be of different length and splendor, end with a cuff or an elastic band, made of lace, organza and other lightweight fabrics.

A-Line Dress: Pattern

The construction of the pattern of A-silhouette is based on the change in the drawing of the base of the direct dress:

1. Construct a basic drawing (pattern-base).
2. Determine the desired length of the dress, mark it on the line of the middle of the drawing of the shelf and backrest (segment AB).
3. Change the silhouette. To do this, make a width increase along the line of the bottom by 4-6 cm. Draw a straight line from the bottom corner of the armhole to the marked point (segment HK).
4. Adjust the line of the bottom, lifting it on the side by 1.5-2 cm, as shown in the figure (section KM).
5. Remove darts at the waist.
6. Remove the shoulder tuck (if the chest is large - shorten by 2-3 cm).
7. Shorten the shoulder seam by 0.5-1.5 cm from the side of the armhole for better fit of the flashlight sleeve.
8. Measure the lateral lines of the shelf and back, with a discrepancy in length - to adjust.
9. To draw a line of a neck proceeding from own wishes. If necessary, note the position of the fastener.

Cut out the finished parts and cut them into fabric,from which the dress with a flashlight sleeve will be made. The part of the shelf is one piece, with a fold in the middle. The back can be either integral or composed of two parts with a seam in the middle.

Advanced to the bottom of the sleeve flashlight

As a basis for a flashlight extended to the bottom, the pattern of a single-seam sleeve is used:

1. Construct a basic drawing.
2. Draw the center line vertically, divide the sleeve into eight pieces, as shown in Figure 1.
3. Cut out the resulting pattern and spread it outpaper, sliding the lower part of the cuts. The wider the gap between the pieces of pattern, the more splendid the sleeve will be. For medium splendor, the width of the sleeve should be doubled.
4. From the center line, put 6 cm (less for children's patterns), draw a smooth line of the bottom as shown in Figure 1.
5. Cut the part, cut out of the fabric, adding allowances to the seams.

This pattern of the sleeve-flashlight requires a slight shortening of the shoulder seam of the base of the dress (0.5 cm).

Sleeve under the hood

The base for the flashlight, enlarged along the pellet and the bottom, is also the pattern of a single-seam sleeve:

1. Construct a basic drawing.
2. Draw the center line vertically, divide the sleeve into eight pieces, as shown in Figure 2.
3. Cut out the resulting pattern and spread it outpaper, sliding the cut pieces parallel to each other at a distance of 6 cm for medium splendor. Gaps can be increased up to 8 cm for a larger volume of the finished sleeve, or, conversely, reduced to get a narrower version.
4. At the middle point, put down 6 cm (less for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 2.
5. Pick up the sleeves 2 cm (less for children's patterns), smoothly arrange the line, as shown in the picture.
6. Cut the part, cut out of the fabric, adding allowances to the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, shortening of the shoulder seam of the dress base from 0.5 to 1.5 cm is required.

A long sleeve-flashlight turns lush at the topparts and wrists. Most often this version is used in evening dresses and carnival costumes, however, you can find it in everyday clothes.

Advanced on the sleeve flashlight

The pattern of the sleeve of the flashlight, extended from above, is made on the basis of the drawing of a single-seam sleeve:

1. Construct a basic drawing.
2. Draw the center line vertically, divide the sleeve into eight pieces, as shown in Figure 3.
3. Cut the resulting pattern and spread it out on paper. The upper part of the sleeve, which will form a flashlight, will be moved to the desired distance.
4. Pick up the sleeves 2-3 cm (less forchildren's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in Figure 3. This is necessary for a beautiful fit when creating assemblies. The lower part remains unchanged.
5. Cut the part, cut out of the fabric, adding allowances to the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is necessary to shorten the shoulder seam of the dress by a value from 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The bottom of the sleeve-flashlight can be decorated with lace, cuff, oblique bake.

Sewing the basis of the dress

A dress with a flashlight sleeve that has an A-silhouette is sewn very simply and quickly. The whole process consists of the following stages:

1. Run shoulder taps (if any), press them.
2. Fold the details of the backrest, if it is not intact, with the sides facing inward, make the seam, taking into account the fastener.
3. Fold the back and the shelf with the front sides inward, perform the side and shoulder seams.
4. To process a neck (обтачкой, an oblique бейкой or притачать a collar)
5. Process the bottom of the dress.

Before sewing flash sleeves, the prepared substrate should be ironed, check the presence of marks of the pellet of the sleeve and measure the size of the armhole.

Sewing and sewing a sleeve flashlight

When the base of the dress is ready, you can go to work with a sleeve. Its sewing and stitching in the armhole consists of the following actions:

1. Chalk outline the plot on the pellet, designed to perform assemblies.
2. Loosen the tension of the upper thread and select the largest stitch length on the machine.
3. Lay two lines parallel to each other, retreating 5 mm from the seam line.
4. Pull the bottom strings of the lines to form assemblies.
5. Evenly arrange them.
6. Run the seam of the sleeve.
7. Pin the sleeve with the assemblies to the armhole, if necessary, adjust its width.
8. Stitch the flashlight and remove the stitches to form the assemblies.
9. Treat the bottom of the sleeve in the selected way.

Knowing how to sew sleeves-flashlights, you canexperiment with their width, length, and also with the choice of the base of the product. This detail of clothes can look quite differently on the business dress of an adult woman and on the home attire of a little girl.

The dress with a flashlight sleeve is very relevant today. If it has an A-silhouette, then in the summer it will be well combined with sandals on a flat sole, and in the cold season - with boots.